Some highway signs are so beloved that people keep stealing them. Transportation officials once pulled the M off certain signs just to make them less tempting.
That tells you a lot about how people feel about this road. It hugs the Lake Michigan shoreline for roughly 116 miles.
It crosses the 45th parallel twice, which means you hit the halfway point between the equator and the North Pole two separate times.
I like how the drive never stays the same for long. Giant sand dunes give way to fishing shanties, lighthouses, cherry shops, and quiet harbors.
I can’t imagine a better way to slow your breathing down in Michigan.
So what makes a stretch of pavement feel calmer than a couch session? The answer starts with a sign worth stealing.
The Road So Loved People Keep Swiping Its Signs
Most roads earn a name. M-22 earned a fan club.
The diamond-shaped route marker became so popular that thieves kept unbolting it.
Michigan transportation crews eventually got creative in 2016. They removed the M from some signs, leaving a lonely 22 that felt far less collectible.
It’s a funny fix, and honestly a little clever.
The road itself has deep roots. M-22 became an original state trunkline in July 1919.
Before that, the shoreline route was promoted as part of the West Michigan Pike starting in 1913.
Over the decades, boosters tried several catchy names. It was called the Chippewa Trail in 1929 and the Manitou Trail in 1953.
The Michigamme Trail came along in the early 1960s.
None of those nicknames stuck the way the simple number did. Today the route runs about 116 miles through Manistee, Benzie, Leelanau, and Grand Traverse counties.
It bends into a U shape around the Leelanau Peninsula.
Big sections now carry the official Pure Michigan Byway title. The northern stretch got its first scenic designation in 2002.
Please admire the signs, and leave them where they are.
Your Trip Starts in a Victorian Port Town
Manistee kicks things off with style. M-22 begins right off US-31 in this Victorian port city, so your scenic drive opens with history instead of a parking lot.
Stretch your legs on the Riverwalk first. It runs about 1.5 miles and makes an easy, relaxing warm-up before the long shoreline miles ahead.
The historic Ramsdell Theater stands as one of the town’s best-known landmarks. Manistee also has beaches and golf courses, which makes lingering awfully tempting.
Nobody said you had to rush the start.
Timing can add extra fun. The Manistee Forest Festival happens over the Fourth of July holiday.
In early December, the Sleighbell Parade and Old Christmas Weekend bring a cozy holiday feel.
A short drive north, Onekama shows off its nickname as the Two Lake Town. You get Lake Michigan on one side and calm Portage Lake on the other.
Onekama Village Park offers a sandy beach, picnic area, playground, and boat launch. Keep an eye out for Old Faceful, an artesian spring that ranks high on the quirky scale.
Two lakes and a talking-point spring? Not a bad first hour.
Climb 120 Steps for a View That Earns Its Nickname
Your calves might complain at first. Then you reach the top of Arcadia Overlook and suddenly forget why.
Locals and travelers also call this spot Inspiration Point. Getting there takes a climb of about 120 steps, and the elevation change might even make your ears pop.
That’s a workout and a magic trick in one.
The payoff is a wide view of Lake Michigan stretching out past the Arcadia Dunes. On a clear day, the blue seems to go on forever.
Bring water and take your time on the stairs.
The village of Arcadia sits nearby along M-22. It hosts Arcadia Daze every July, a small-town celebration that fits the easygoing pace of the drive.
Golfers know the area for Arcadia Bluffs Golf Course. Even if you don’t swing a club, the name tells you how dramatic the shoreline gets around here.
Here’s my advice for this stretch. Pull over more than you think you need to.
M-22 rewards drivers who stop, climb, and look, rather than those chasing the finish line.
Two Lighthouses Make Sunset Plans Easy
Lighthouse lovers, this is your chapter. Frankfort and its sister town Elberta pack in more charm than their size suggests.
Out on the pier, the Frankfort North Light stands as an industrial-style lighthouse. It’s a classic spot for watching the sun sink into Lake Michigan.
Golden hour practically comes with a reserved seat.
Nearby, Point Betsie Lighthouse brings a different mood. It’s a public lighthouse with real historical value and a public lakeshore around it.
Waves, sand, and a postcard-worthy tower all in one stop.
Frankfort’s downtown gives you a reason to linger after the lights. You’ll find fine dining and unique shops along its main district.
It’s an easy place to wander without a plan.
Fall adds a goofy bonus. Frankfort’s Fall Festival includes Pumpkin Chuckin’, and yes, it’s exactly as fun as it sounds.
I’d suggest planning your day so you reach this area near sunset. Few things calm a busy brain like watching the sky change colors behind a lighthouse.
Call it scenic therapy with a side of shoreline breeze.
Sand Mountains Steal the Whole Show
A national lakeshore right beside the road? M-22 delivers exactly that.
The highway runs straight through Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, once voted the Most Beautiful Place in America.
Empire works as the gateway and sits near the drive’s centermost point. The Philip A.
Hart Visitor Center is located here, so it’s a smart first stop. The Empire Bluff Trail offers hiking with big lake views.
Then comes the Dune Climb. It rises to a 110-foot bluff with 360-degree views of Lake Michigan and the nearby Glen Lakes.
Climbing sand feels like walking uphill on a beanbag, but it’s worth it.
The Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive connects key viewpoints inside the park. It’s perfect when your legs need a break but your eyes don’t.
Prefer wheels or water? The paved Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail welcomes bikers.
Kayaking, paddleboarding, and even surfing lessons are available in the area.
Empire Beach adds a rugged spot for sunbathing and rock hunting. Downtown Empire has restaurants, souvenir shops, and chocolate stores.
Sand in your shoes is basically the official souvenir.
Glen Arbor Serves Cherries and a Slower Pace
After the dunes, Glen Arbor feels like a deep exhale. This little town gives you a welcome change of pace from all that rugged scenery.
Cherry Republic is the famous name here. The shop leans hard into cherry-themed treats and homemade goods, which fits northern Michigan perfectly.
Leaving empty-handed is a real challenge.
Hungry travelers have options too. Bluebirds Restaurant is known for whitefish, a regional favorite worth trying.
Blu offers gourmet waterfront dining for a fancier stop.
Shipwreck Cafe adds another casual choice in town. Between meals, the M22 logowear store lets you take the road’s famous look home.
It’s a much better plan than borrowing a sign.
The town works well as a midday break. Walk around, grab a snack, and let the drive’s rhythm sink in a little.
Plenty of people treat the road like a checklist. I believe Glen Arbor is where you should toss that list aside.
Enjoy a slow lunch, admire the trees, and remember that this trip is supposed to feel easy.
Weathered Shanties Bring Old Fishing Days Back
Wooden shanties, docked boats, and the smell of smoked fish. Fishtown in Leland looks like a scene borrowed from another century.
That’s because it mostly is. This fishing village dates back more than a hundred years, and its weathered buildings give it plenty of character.
It ranks among the top stops along M-22.
Carlsen’s sells smoked salmon, a tasty souvenir if you have a cooler. Charter fishing boats also leave from here for anglers who want their own catch.
Feeling adventurous? Manitou Transit runs trips out to the nearby Manitou Islands.
It’s a great add-on if you want your day to include a boat ride.
Back on shore, Van’s Beach sits downtown. It’s a popular place to search for Leland Blue stones, which shine with a striking blue color.
Rock hunting might be the most relaxing hobby ever invented. You walk slowly, stare at the ground, and forget about your inbox for a while.
Pack a small bag for treasures, and give yourself more time here than planned. The shanties won’t rush you.
The Peninsula Tip Feels Wonderfully Quiet
Up north, the volume drops. Northport sits at the northernmost point of M-22 before the road curves south again.
This area feels more secluded than the busier stops. A quiet harbor and waterfront set the tone, surrounded by plenty of nature.
It’s the kind of place where you suddenly notice birds again.
Downtown Northport keeps things interesting with eclectic shops and galleries. Browsing here feels low-pressure and fun.
You might find art you didn’t know you needed.
Nearby Leelanau State Park holds the Grand Traverse Lighthouse. It’s a worthy detour near the very tip of the peninsula.
Lighthouse number three on your trip? Nobody’s counting, except maybe you.
Fun fact time. M-22 crosses the 45th parallel twice on the Leelanau Peninsula.
That line marks the halfway point between the equator and the North Pole.
So you’re officially halfway to the top of the world, twice, in one afternoon. That’s a fun brag for any road trip group chat.
Take a moment at the tip, breathe some fresh air, and then start the gentle swing south.
Save Energy for a Colorful Bayside Finish
In 2015, readers of USA Today and 10Best voted M-22 America’s best scenic autumn drive. The southbound stretch along Grand Traverse Bay shows why.
Heading down the peninsula, the road passes through Peshawbestown. This is the reservation of the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians.
It’s home to one of the tribe’s casinos.
Next comes Suttons Bay, a waterfront community with a colorful, walkable downtown. You’ll find specialty shops, eateries, art galleries, and waterfront dining.
It’s an easy place to stroll before the final miles.
The drive wraps up in Traverse City, known as the cherry capital of the world. Its lively downtown has plenty of boutiques for one last browse.
Fall truly makes this Michigan road shine. Bright leaves frame the blue water, and every curve looks freshly painted.
Summer brings its own charm, but autumn earns the trophies.
My tip is to drive it twice someday. Once in summer, once in fall.
Either way, you’ll reach the end of these 116 miles feeling lighter. Therapy bills not included.
