The whitefish here is smoked over maplewood, and the boat that catches it still ties up a few steps from the counter. That boat is a green and white tug named Joy.
She isn’t a museum piece, either.
The smokehouses are real, working buildings too. One handles chubs and jerky.
A bigger one takes care of whitefish, salmon, and trout.
I find it fascinating that a Norwegian immigrant started this business back in 1904. His great-great-grandson, who shares his name, helps run it today.
That is a lot of Michigan family history packed into one fish counter.
I believe smoked fish tastes better when you can see the water it came from. So what happens when a little shanty on a river beats every other stop along the lake?
The Smoke Comes From Maplewood, And You Can Tell Before The Door Opens
Maplewood is the secret ingredient at Carlson’s Fishery, and it’s hardly a secret. The family has smoked Great Lakes fish this way for generations.
Smoked whitefish is the star here, and it earns that spot. Whitefish comes straight from Lake Michigan, which keeps the whole operation tied to the water outside.
Why does the wood matter so much? Different woods give fish different flavors, and maple is known for a mellow, slightly sweet smoke.
The fishery runs two working smokehouses on site. A smaller one handles chubs and jerky, while a larger one takes on whitefish, salmon, and trout.
That split makes sense when you think about it. Big fillets and little chubs don’t need the exact same treatment.
Here’s a smart move for your visit. Buy a whole piece of smoked whitefish rather than a tiny sample, because you’ll want leftovers.
Pull it apart with your fingers at a picnic spot. Then pick out any bones carefully, since this is real fish and not a processed stick.
Bring a cooler if you’re driving far. Smoked fish travels well, but it still likes staying cold on a warm Michigan afternoon.
A Fish Shop Older Than The Model T Assembly Line
Back in 1904, a Norwegian immigrant named Nels Carlson started fishing in Leland. More than a century later, his family name still hangs over the door.
The tradition has passed through five generations. That’s the kind of family resume most businesses can only dream about.
Bill Carlson, a fourth-generation fisherman, played a big role in saving Fishtown itself. Without that effort, the old shanties might look very different today.
In 2012, the business moved to fifth-generation Nels Carlson, named after the founder. He runs it with partner Joe Campo, and Mike Burda is also a co-owner.
Things changed in a clever way around 2006 and 2007. The Carlson family sold the property, fishing licenses, and gear to the nonprofit Fishtown Preservation Society.
Carlson’s Fishery now leases its spot at the dock from that group. The society hires the fishermen, and Carlson’s handles processing and sales.
I like how this setup protects both the history and the fish. It keeps a working waterfront working, rather than turning it into a gift shop with nets on the wall.
Ask the counter staff about the family story. Knowing it makes every bite feel a bit more meaningful.
Your Snack Has A Boat, And Her Name Is Joy
Few seafood counters can point to the actual boat that brought in dinner. Fishtown can, and her name is Joy.
Joy is a green and white fish tug, and she’s still a working commercial boat. Her partner tug, Janice Sue, is fully operational too.
Both tugs belong to the Fishtown Preservation Society. They’re used to catch whitefish from Lake Michigan, so they’re far more than pretty photo props.
Kids usually get excited about boats with names. Adults do too, though they pretend they’re just checking the lighting for a photo.
Spend a few minutes along the dock before you head inside to shop. Watching a real fishing operation gives the smoked fish on the counter a whole new backstory.
Be respectful while you look around. This is a workplace, so give the crews room and keep little ones close to you near the water.
Fishing season shapes everything here. The fishery typically opens in mid-April as the shoreline thaws and closes in late October.
That timing follows the crews pulling up their nets for the year. Plan your Michigan road trip with that window in mind, or you’ll be staring at a closed shanty.
Pâté And Fish Sausage Will Change Your Picnic Plans
Spreadable fish sounds odd until you’ve seen what happens to a box of crackers near it. Carlson’s makes an original smoked whitefish pâté that turns any snack into a feast.
It’s one of the signature products at Carlson’s Fishery. Pâté is great for people who want smoky flavor without dealing with bones.
Then there’s smoked whitefish sausage. Yes, sausage made from fish, and it’s another of the shop’s signature items.
Fish sausage is a fun pick for anyone curious but a little nervous. It’s easy to slice, easy to share, and easy to pack into a lunch.
Here’s a simple game plan. Grab pâté, crackers, and a few sausage links, then build your own snack board.
Cheese pairs nicely with smoked fish, and so do sliced veggies or pickles. Keep it simple and let the fish do the heavy lifting.
Think about gifts too. A tub of pâté makes a better souvenir than another keychain your aunt will lose in a drawer.
Store spreads cold and eat them within a reasonable time. Fresh products like these don’t sit around forever, which honestly isn’t a problem.
Trout, Salmon, Chub, And Walleye All Want A Turn
Whitefish gets the headline, but the supporting cast is strong. The counter also offers lake trout, salmon, chub, and walleye.
Smoked lake trout is a signature product, and it deserves a spot in your bag. Trout is a classic Great Lakes fish with a long history in this region.
Chub is smaller and comes from the little smokehouse. It’s a traditional choice that many Great Lakes families grew up eating.
Fresh fish is available too, not just smoked. That’s handy if you’re staying nearby with a kitchen and want to cook dinner yourself.
So how do you pick? Try one familiar fish and one new one, then compare them side by side at your picnic.
Ask whether the fresh fish came in recently. Staff can point you toward what fits your plans, whether that’s grilling tonight or snacking in the car.
Early visits are a smart idea for fresh selections. Popular items can go fast during a busy summer day in Michigan.
A sampler approach also keeps everyone in your group happy. Someone always swears they don’t like fish, right up until the trout gets passed around.
The Jerky Is Here For Anyone Who Swears Off Fish
Every road trip has one passenger who claims fish isn’t their thing. Carlson’s has a plan for them, and it involves beef and turkey jerky.
The jerky gets smoked in the smaller smokehouse alongside the chubs. So it carries the same smokehouse care as the fish.
That makes this stop easy for mixed groups. Fish fans can load up on whitefish while jerky lovers grab their own stash.
Jerky also travels better than almost anything else on the counter. Toss it in a backpack for a beach walk or a long drive home.
Turkey jerky gives you a second option when you want variety. Buying both is a reasonable choice, and nobody here will judge you.
Here’s a sneaky tip for parents. Jerky makes a great car snack that won’t leave sticky fingerprints on every window.
It’s also a solid gift for friends back home who weren’t on the trip. They’ll forgive you for not inviting them, at least partly.
Just don’t let the jerky distract you completely. You came to Fishtown for smoked whitefish, so make sure that lands in the bag too.
Caught A Salmon On A Charter? They’ll Smoke It For You
Landing a big salmon feels amazing for about an hour. Then reality hits, and you wonder how to cook a fish that size.
Carlson’s Fishery has an answer. The shop offers a service to smoke salmon caught by customers on charter boat trips.
That’s a pretty sweet deal for anglers. You get the bragging rights, and pros with real smokehouses handle the hard part.
Charter fishing is a popular way to enjoy Lake Michigan. Pairing a trip with this smoking service turns a fun morning into snacks for weeks.
Plan ahead before your trip. Call the shop or ask in person about timing, so you know what to expect once your fish comes in.
Keep your catch cold and handled properly after the boat docks. Good fish going in means better smoked fish coming out.
I can’t imagine a better ending to a charter day in Michigan. Your salmon ends up in the same maplewood smoke as the shop’s signature fish.
Share it with family at home and tell the story. The fish gets bigger every time you tell it, which is basically a tradition.
Old Shanty Up Front, Serious Machinery Out Back
From the outside, the retail store looks like a classic old fishing shanty. That’s because it is one, sitting right in historic Fishtown.
Behind the charm, Carlson’s Fishery is a serious operation. It can process up to 1,000 pounds of fish per hour.
The fish heads out through the retail store and through wholesale channels. So your smoked whitefish might have cousins in shops elsewhere.
In winter 2021, part of the building was torn down because it had worn out. A rebuild costing about half a million dollars followed.
The best part? Crews saved the retail shanty and joined it to the new processing section.
History stayed, and the work got easier.
Expect a real working fishery when you step inside. It smells like fish, which is exactly what a fish shop should smell like.
Hours generally run from mid-morning to late afternoon during the season. Weekends often stay open a little later, so check before heading over.
Shopping here feels different from a grocery store. You’re buying from a place that handles its fish from boat to counter.
Stay A While, Because Fishtown Deserves More Than A Quick Stop
Grabbing your fish and rushing off would be a mistake. The shop sits at 205 River St, Leland, MI 49654, right in the middle of historic Fishtown.
Fishtown is a collection of preserved fishing shanties, smokehouses, and docks. They line the Leland River, which connects Lake Leelanau to Lake Michigan.
That little river does a big job. It links an inland lake to one of the largest freshwater lakes on the planet.
Walk the docks slowly and take in the weathered buildings. Few places in Michigan keep their fishing past this alive and working.
Make a plan for your snacks first. Pick up smoked whitefish, then find a pleasant spot near the water to enjoy it.
Bring napkins, a small knife, and hand wipes. Smoked fish is wonderful, but it doesn’t exactly leave your fingers smelling like roses.
Photographers will love the shanties and tugs in different light. Morning and late afternoon both give the gray wood a nice glow.
After tasting smoked whitefish up and down the lake, this spot simply felt right. Good fish, real history, and a river view make a winning combo.
